July 28, 2009

TrueSummit Survey

Everyone has different preferences, goals and attitudes about hiking and climbing mountains. I'd like to get your thoughts on a handful of topics. Please take a few minutes to complete this short, 5-question survey.

Thank you!
Sarah

July 24, 2009

Crestones - One Down, One to Go

Last weekend we started our run of the final fourteeners on our list with a backpack into South Colony Lakes and an attempt at the Crestones. 


The Peak was a great climb, with the exception of a large group above us who sent a near-continuous (and totally unnecessary) volley of rockfall down on all the climbers below them. Here's a view of the route from part-way up the Red Gully:


By the time we re-climbed Broken Hand Pass it was too late to attempt the Needle. We were also out of water and beat. We'll be back in September to take care of that unfinished business.


Skipping the Needle left us with enough energy to rise at 3:00 a.m. on Sunday and shoot up Humboldt in the dark, arriving on the summit just before sunrise:


We were back at the tent around 7:00, on the trail before 8:00, and enjoying a couple IPAs at the car by 10:30. 


Missing the Needle shouldn't derail our plans of finishing this year, but we don't have much room for error. Our remaining peak list / itinerary looks like this: 

  • Snowmass (this weekend)
  • Pyramid
  • Culebra 
  • Blanca / Ellingwood
  • Little Bear
  • Maroon Peak
  • El Diente
  • Sunlight / Windom / Eolus
  • Wilson Peak / Mt. Wilson
  • Capitol
  • North Maroon
  • Crestone Needle
  • Sneffels

No place for a nervous person. 


The only peak that truly concerns me is Little Bear. Having no personal control over rocks shooting down at my head is a frightening prospect. The others I think I can handle, but it will be a true test of physical and psychological fortitude. 


Here's a parting shot of the Needle... see you in September:



July 14, 2009

Trailhead Access - The Good, the Bad, and The Lake Como Road

Whoever said that getting there is half the fun has never taken a white-knuckle drive down one of Colorado’s mountain roads.

 

Accessing fourteener trailheads can be problematic, to put it mildly. Many of the standard routes begin at the end of 4WD roads, some of which are exceedingly rough and not passable with your standard Explorer or Pathfinder.

 

Which is why I’m proud to say I’ve climbed all of my 14ers so far with a lowly Honda Civic.

 

Using a car with pitifully low clearance has probably added close to 100 miles to my total hiking distance, but I’ve decided that fuel efficiency outweighs the extra foot travel. Plus, road-walking builds character!

 

I’m living proof that you don’t need an SUV to climb the fourteeners. But I’d be amiss if I didn’t warn you that not having 4WD will make for longer hikes. 


The roughest road in Colorado (probably in the entire US, for that matter) is Lake Como Road, which leads to Blanca, Ellingwood and Little Bear. It's so rough you'd have to be crazy to take any sort of motorized vehicle up it.... not that it stops people from trying:


On the other hand, some 4WD roads go so far up the mountain that you can barely call the remaining route a climb. For example, the road on Mt. Antero tops out at over 13K. And you can drive a 4x4 up to 12,700' on Castle Peak

 

When planning a hike, be sure to consider whether your vehicle can safely make it up the road to wherever you intend to start. You can check trailhead conditions on 14ers.com. When in doubt, allow extra time for potential road walking.

 

Finally, while I’m determined to finish the fourteeners with my trusty Civic and refuse to accept rides as a matter of principle, you can take comfort in the fact that it’s fairly easy to bum a ride in some kind soul’s FJ Cruiser if you want to cut down your distance.

July 13, 2009

Mountaineering Safety - Avoiding Accident & Injury on the Peaks

Climbing mountains is not a risk-free activity. Just this past weekend, a climber from Colorado Springs was killed on Capitol Peak, a 14er near Aspen. 


Tragic accidents like these happen every year. You can sift through an extensive history of Colorado mountaineering accidents on listsofjohn

 

If you’re going to climb, you must be willing to accept some level of risk. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t take every possible precaution to keep yourself safe.

 

I can’t cover every aspect of mountaineering safety in one post. Instead, I’ll cover some of the main hazards, give a few tips on how to avoid them, and point you to more extensive resources.

 

Avalanches – Snow can remain on the high peaks well into June, with some areas holding snow year-round. Avalanche danger is always a risk, particularly in spring and early summer.

 

Some tips:

  • Add the Colorado Avalanche Information Center (CAIC) to your bookmarks. The site provides backcountry avalanche condition forecasts, updated twice daily. 
  • Take an avalanche awareness course. Most REI stores offer several class throughout the year. Find one near you on REI's online store locator and click on Classes, Events and Presentations for a schedule.
  • If you venture out in winter or spring, carry avalanche gear: beacon, shovel and probe. (Note that this equipment is useless unless your partner has the same gear.)

Getting Lost – The easier fourteeners have well-defined trails, and you’ll have plenty of people to follow if you’re hiking on a summer weekend. But many of the harder peaks require good route-finding skills.

 

Some tips:

  • Always carry a map and compass (and know how to use them). A GPS can be helpful, but isn’t a replacement for map-and-compass orienteering.
  • In case you do get lost and are forced to spend a night out, carry emergency food, matches and extra clothing. A lightweight bivy sack like this one is also a good idea.

Rock Fall – Many of the more difficult fourteeners have loose rock. Not only do you want to avoid being hit, you also need to avoid sending rocks down on climbers below you.

 

Some tips:

Lightning – Refer to my July 8 post on The Art of the Alpine Start

 

I’ve already recommended Freedom of the Hills, but I’ll plug it again here as a must-have resource. Reading this book will give you the knowledge you need to travel safely in the mountains, but remember that there’s no substitute for actual experience.

July 8, 2009

The Art of the Alpine Start

I'll be the first to admit that I'm not a morning person. But I've come to accept the fact that my peak-bagging habit requires me to rise early on the weekends.


The practice of departing for a climb before dawn or at first light is known as getting an "alpine start." As unpleasant as it may seem, hitting the trail very early is the only way to avoid afternoon thunderstorms.


Thunderstorms are simply a fact of life in the high country, particularly in the summer months.

For a good overview of weather patterns in the high country, check out the "Consider the Weather" section in this article on the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative (CFI) website. It explains that the storms we experience in Colorado from June through September are caused by rising warm air masses and can bring heavy rain, hail, and lightning.


No one likes to get caught in the rain or hail. But the real danger is lightning.


According to the National Weather Service (NWS), lightning has killed an average of 58 people per year during the past 30 years – more than either tornadoes or hurricanes.

This page on the NWS website offers tips on avoiding thunderstorms and treating lightning strike victims. Key takeaway: Seek shelter!

Choose your start time depending on the distance of your hike (also taking into consideration your average speed on the trail). The standard rule of thumb is to be off the summit by noon. However, in my experience, it's best to be back below treeline by noon.


It's very easy to get "summit fever" and push on when you know the weather is rolling in. I've done it myself, on the Atlantic-Pacific-Crystal trifecta of top 100 peaks.


The black clouds looming overhead in the photo below turned into an electrical storm that literally had my hair standing on end. I made it down safely, but not without taking far too great a risk.